Devoré Reformulated

Riverside MillThe Wheel RoomExhibitionGMI

22 Dec

Written By Laura Wasley

A Green Maker Initiative Mini Maker Showcase

23 June - 10 July 2026, The Wheel Room

Devoré Reformulated

Devoré is a historic textile technique, usually screen printed onto specialist mixed-fibre fabrics to create delicate sheer and opaque effects by burning away selected fibres. Once widely used in textile practice, it is now increasingly at risk in education and studios because traditional pastes rely on hazardous chemicals that raise health, safety and environmental concerns.

This project began by identifying Devoré as both a valued craft process and a process in need of safer reformulation. Through the Green Maker Initiative at MAKE Southwest, Emma Gribble collaborated with Arts University Plymouth and chemistry intern Hermione Graham to investigate the original recipe. This successful collaboration led to the development of a new reduced-toxicity paste, opening up possibilities for safer studio and educational use.

The project has now informed Emma’s final MA body of work and textile collection by supporting new studio practices and guidance, and by enabling the creation of screen-printed samples across a range of surfaces using the newly reformulated Devoré paste.

The samples on display show the paste in action, demonstrating how endangered textile knowledge can be preserved through sustainable innovation.

Why is Devoré at risk?

Research Paper Abstract

The first phase of practice-led research investigated how the Devoré textile process could be reformulated using safer, less hazardous approaches while preserving its distinctive aesthetic and structural qualities. Through interdisciplinary collaboration between Arts University Plymouth, MAKE Southwest, and the Green Maker Initiative, iterative studio testing explored alternatives to toxic substances traditionally used within Devoré production.

The research successfully developed a reformulated print paste capable of selectively removing cellulose fibres from silk-viscose fabrics without compromising material integrity or print clarity. Findings demonstrated that environmentally responsible innovation can coexist with historically toxic textile practices, offering a sustainable alternative suitable for contemporary studio and educational settings. Beyond Devoré, the project proposes a broader model for re-evaluating endangered textile processes whose decline has resulted because of their toxicity.

Download the full paper

About Emma

Emma Gribble

Senior Lecturer & Course Leader in BA (Hons) Textile Design

Emma is a textile designer who has developed a successful interior textiles brand which is sold online and in retail outlets all over the UK. She has worked with globally renowned agencies designing printed textiles for the fashion and interior design markets. She regularly produces one-off commissions and has exhibited work all over the UK and in Europe.

In her role at Arts University Plymouth, Emma shares her extensive technical knowledge and passion for printed textile design. She is constantly striving to learn more, innovate her ideas and loves to work with tomorrow's designers.

Emma is the course leader for BA (hons) Textile Design, managing the course team and responsible for the shape and focus of the course content. She teaches across all levels of the programme, module leading Textile specific units as well as cross course delivery.